Pappy Van Winkle is bourbon royalty. It stands apart as one of the rarest and most sought-after whiskies on the planet. The three star expressions, 15, 20, and 23 years, are legendary. People queue up, join lotteries, and pay thousands just for a shot. 

Reviews from The Whiskey Wash by Margarett Waterbury join expert commentary from Whisky Advocate, Breaking Bourbon, Tasting Table, and others. Together, they paint a vivid picture of how these bourbons compare. Let’s dive in and explore which one might be the true standout.

The Pappy Van Winkle Legend

Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve is distilled at Buffalo Trace in Frankfort, Kentucky. It uses a wheated mash bill. That makes it smoother and more suited to long aging than rye-based bourbons. The 15, 20, and 23‑year expressions are aged far longer than most, often double the industry norm. 

Production is extremely limited. Only around 84,000 bottles are released across all Van Winkle expressions each year, and even fewer for Pappy itself. These allocations are sold through lotteries and retailer raffles.

Resale values are staggering. A 23‑year bottle, retailing around $250, may fetch up to $4,000 on the secondary market. That extreme markup contributes more to Pappy’s mystique than its quality, but the bourbon itself still delivers.

So, with such an unmatched reputation amongst whiskey enthusiasts, which Pappy Van Winkle expression sits at the pinnacle of the range? Let’s find out. 

Pappy Van Winkle 15 Year – The “Sweet Spot”

Margarett Waterbury of The Whiskey Wash gave the 15 Year a 9 out of 10. She describes a nose that smells like “a night at the movie theater: candy corn, A&W Root Beer, popcorn, butter, shellac.” A splash of water brings out tropical fruit and then an “herbaceous, pungently mossy aroma” with notes of algae, peat moss, chlorophyll, and live wood.

On the palate she finds tart and bitter notes of “blood orange, citrus gastrique, dark chocolate, wheat bran.” These open into richer flavors of prunes, nutmeg, perique tobacco, stewed cherry, and pencil shavings. The finish turns herbal again with fennel, sage leaf, and crème de menthe. She calls it “the whiskey equivalent of a double IPA” and says it could even work well with soda water.

Other reviewers agree on its strength and intensity. Whisky Advocate called it “the nonpareil of wheated bourbon” and awarded 96 points. Tasting Table praises its vivid fruit, caramel, vanilla, and chocolate, while noting that oak stays in the background. 

The 15 Year is often seen as the boldest and most intense Pappy. It offers high proof, rich layers of flavor, and a more powerful profile than the 20 or 23 Year. The general consensus is that it is a “sweet spot” for drinkers who want strength and complexity without excessive oak. Others think that the whiskey could benefit from more time in the barrel, which is the exact treatment that was given to the next bourbon in our lineup. 

Pappy Van Winkle 20 Year – The Best of The Best? 

Margarett Waterbury gave the 20 Year a perfect 10 out of 10. She describes a rich nose of “butterscotch, brown butter, fresh dark cherries dipped in milk chocolate, vanilla bean, sherry, Raisinettes, plum jam, figs, dark honey.” Despite all that depth she still finds “a fundamental freshness” with lemon pulp and lime zest. The oak is clear but never harsh, and she says, “this is the kind of thing you can smell forever and never tire of.”

On the palate she finds the same lemony tartness she noted in the 15 Year, but here it is balanced by “very rich umami flavors” like sherried cherries, hickory smoked jerky, leather, and nutty spice. The finish is long and nutty, ending on a delicate dark chocolate note. She calls it “about as close to perfect as anything ever gets.”

Other critics echo this view. Eric Hasman at Breaking Bourbon calls it one of his favorite bourbons of all time, praising its balance and integration. Tasting Table says it takes the foundation of the 15 Year “to the next level” with extra layers of caramel, cocoa, and mellow toasted oak. 

The 20 Year is widely regarded as the most balanced Pappy. Perhaps the best. It offers the richness of the 15 Year with added depth and polish, and avoids the heavier oak profile of the 23 Year. The general consensus is that this is the most complete and universally appealing expression in the Pappy Van Winkle lineup.

Pappy Van Winkle 23 Year – The Oak-Driven Giant

Margarett Waterbury scored the 23 Year 9 out of 10. She describes a nose of “dark earth, forest floor, chocolate, tobacco, prunes” with a hint of minerality. Water brings out “heady vanilla, apricot custard, geranium leaf, plum, pine, and cherry” while keeping that deep earthiness intact.

The palate is “immensely powerful” with dark cocoa, dry tobacco, toasted walnuts, dates, buckwheat, and coffee bean. These flavors are tightly integrated with tingly tannins. The finish is long, earthy, and powdery-dry, with only a faint whisper of the tartness found in the younger Pappys. She contrasts it with the 20 Year, calling that one “lush and rounded” while describing the 23 Year as “more austere, yet more complex.”

Other reviewers are divided. Breaking Bourbon praises it as a prime example of long aging done right, with oak that is assertive but not overpowering. 

Tasting Table calls it “an exceptional bourbon” with rich caramel, vanilla, chocolate, and cherry, yet acknowledges it is more polarizing than the 15 or 20 Year: this Pappy has a much more notable oak influence. I personally love whiskeys that have earthy tasting notes, but not everyone does.” Some critics, like Drinkhacker, feel the oak can dominate and dry out the finish.

The 23 Year is the oldest, rarest, and most expensive Pappy. It offers an intensely oak-forward profile with layers of earth, tobacco, and dark fruit. The general consensus is that it is a connoisseur’s bourbon, highly rewarding for those who love mature oak, but less universally appealing than the 20 Year.

Verdict – Which is the Best Pappy?

All three Pappys are exceptional. Each one has its own personality, and personal taste plays a major role in deciding a favorite. The 15 Year is bold and high proof, with an intensity that appeals to drinkers who want a powerful bourbon. The 23 Year is deep, oak-driven, and complex, ideal for those who enjoy the flavors that come from very long aging.

The 20 Year is often seen as the middle ground. It has the richness of the 15 Year but with extra polish, and it avoids the heavier oak of the 23 Year. Many reviewers, including Breaking Bourbon and Tasting Table, have called it the standout of the range. Margarett Waterbury described it as “about as close to perfect as anything ever gets.”

If there is a consensus, it is that the 20 Year offers the most balance and the broadest appeal. But with bottles this rare, the best Pappy might be whichever one you are lucky enough to find in your glass.

Read the full article at Which Pappy Van Winkle Is The Best?: 15 vs. 20 vs. 23